If he’d made it to the bottom
of the wave, he’d have been dead. Look at the left! Shane’s a mentor for Sancho. You can’t help but learn things
from the best big wave rider. Sancho is the French surfer who has put
the most resources at his disposal to travel the world and
surf the biggest swells. If you stay in your comfort zone,
you don’t improve. The kid is 15 years old.
It’s 25 feet… I was with Sancho, I was imagining
my worst-case scenario… A wipeout, and end up in the impact zone. And that’s exactly what happened to me! It looks really good!
I think we’re in the right place. I swear when you’re being
stubborn you get on my nerves! – You want to go to Belharra?
– It’s too late! When you start getting sucked
into a downward spiral, You get stressed and annoyed.
But that’s just part of the game! I think he’s still fixated on the wipeout… So, he wants to take another shot at it…