I wanted to make a crosscut sled for my
tablesaw and I looked at all the plans and different videos online. One
really stuck out that had all the bells and whistles. It looked super nice and the
video was really nice on how to make it. I went ahead and bought the plans
from Nick Ferry and followed his video. It turned out really nice.
Check the description section down below for links to Nick’s video and his plans.
I’m making the base and cutting some of the pieces that will end up being the
front and back fence here. There’s definitely some tips in here that I
think will help. If you make this, even if you watch Nick’s video too. This is the
glue up of the front and back fence. Make sure and don’t glue those pieces
together, you’re just gluing the two pairs to each other, not all four pieces
glued together. It probably helps keep them straight to have all four of the pieces
in one clamping session. I used wooden runners instead of buying
the runners. If you make your miter runners out of wood, you should have the
grain running vertically in them. That way when the wood expands and contracts
with the humidity changes, it will expand less because this the way they are right
now it would expand more within the depth of the slot the way, than it will
this way. So you want your grain running vertically that’s maple that I’m making
mine out of. Let’s put a thin line of glue on these runners I don’t want
them to.. the glue to spread out and get on the table saw. I did put some pennies underneath these so they’re just a slightly above the level of the table saw.
Remember to leave some room underneath your runners for sawdust and stuff so
they shouldn’t be rubbing on the bottom of the steel at all, or cast iron. I’m screwing on the
maple runners on the bottom of the Baltic birch plywood. These DeWalt
tools really work awesome I love them. The drill and the impact driver. I cut the dados for the tracks.
These screws I made a little long accidentally. I didn’t cut off enough.
They did not go all the way through but they kind of pushed the wood and made a
little bump on the other side. I took them all out, cut a little more off. I
hammered, while they’re out, I hammered the bump flat, sanded that and
then fixed it. And that works better. Cutting the fences to the final height.
Cutting the back fence, putting a little profile on it with a bandsaw. I don’t have a
spindle sander like Nick does but I used a little sander on my
drill press and made a little base for it with a Forstner bit that the sander
fit into. That actually worked quite well once I had that little base.
If I tried to use it, right here, without the little base when the sanding thing
was recessed down into the portion of it hole, it didn’t really work very well. I’m
attaching the back fence on permanently Cutting the rabbit and the front fence Here’s where I had a problem. I cut
through the front fence most of the way before I had done the five cut method
so there’s really only two screws holding it, one on each side of that
fence. What happened was it flexed into like two pieces. It was still attached
barely at the very top but when I tried to do the five cut method, I didn’t
realize at first, but every time I was pushing the plywood up against that
front fence it was flexing it a little bit. I’d get done with the five cut
method, come up with a number and then I would make an adjustment. I would
test it again and it would be off just as much or more and I did it again again.
I was like what the heck is going on and then finally I saw it move and
I was like, oh shoot, and I realized what was happening. I went ahead and just
remade the front fence. Started off with a full piece again and I didn’t didn’t
cut it all the way through until after I was completely done with the five cut
method and after all of the screws were in the front fence so it was not going
to move again. Here’s another gotcha the sled was kind of locking up and
really hard to push and I was thinking oh, it must be binding on the runners that
I cut. But it’s not really. What you need to do if you have this problem is wax
the bottom of your sled with paste wax first, but including the sides of the
runners and the whole bottom. Then wipe off the excess wax because you
should only have like a super tiny thin layer on there. After that things
slid really nicely. For the five cut method make sure and trim your plywood
clockwise after each cut. Make sure that your cut is going towards your
front fence. My fence was off negative point zero
zero eight inches or eight thousandths. Since its negative what I want to do
is put this block in here. Put a eight thousands feeler gauge and there’s
a gap in there. So I will take the screw out, move the fence up since it’s
negative and then I’ll put a new hole in and put the screw in the new
hole and that should adjust it. Then we’ll redo the five cut method and see
how that came out. I’m cutting the rabbit in the front fence here, of the top track.
Pretty exciting, I’m using the crosscut sled to cut the little pieces for the
safety blocks that hide the blade when the blade comes through the
back of the sled. Cutting a little piece for the miter
part of it. putting bevels on it. To mount the miter jig in the sled use
these quarter inch 20 bolts. These are inch and a quarter long; the head
fits into these tracks and if you start from the other side and slide it through
here it will just go right through there and then you can mount it, put one each. You slide
the miter piece down on top of the two bolts that you slid into the tracks and
you can tighten these, tighten that down. Then they’re ready for miter cuts.
The stop block is really nice it’s swivels up out of the way. You can set
the measuring to three inches, tighten this down and it is all solid. Put your
piece in and then you’re ready to cut. You can use it on either side of
blade. I hope that helps if you’re making a crosscut sled be sure to LIKE and
subscribe and don’t forget about the links in the description, do the little
click on the “Show More” and you can find the links to Nick’s video and his plans
and different parts and pieces that were used on this.