You are waking up at the Four Seasons,
it seems like island time, you get to bed pretty early and you are up early.
Watching the sun rise, drink coffee, read a book and get ready for the big buffet. Yeah, I thought it was amazing.
That final then was just constant wave after wave after wave and, you know, it was the finals of your dreams. Where you basically know that… two waves in every set, which was even better.
You get to the top. and it was like ‘are you on the first one?’
‘I’ll take the second one’. That was amazing. Amazing day of surfing.