bandsaw cross cut SLED – multi angle (mitre) cuts – for bandsaw or table saw

bandsaw cross cut SLED – multi angle (mitre) cuts – for bandsaw or table saw


Hi guys,
Whether on a table saw or a bandsaw, a sled is a useful addition. It allows you to make
fast, accurate, ninety degree cuts safely and quickly. And there’s loads of videos
on YouTube to build these, but none that I’ve seen include a mitre arm.
With this, adjustment is simple, allowing you to cut any angle you want, with the same
smooth sled action. Let me show you how I made this one.
If you saw my review of this Draper Bandsaw a few weeks ago, you might recall that I liked
the saw, but like most other saws out there the mitre gauge was quite weak. It’s quite
loose in the track and not long enough to offer decent support. But using these grooves,
it’s possible to make something much better. I took some hardwood and trimmed this down
until it just fit snugly in these tracks, but was loose enough to move freely.
You’ll also note that these sit proud of the table at the moment, and that’s deliberate.
Here I’ve removed the blade from the bandsaw. You’ll need a piece of plywood or, like
I’m using, MDF. This should be a minimum thickness of 18mm and I cut mine to roughly
the same size as the table. Starting with the far track, I added a little
masking tape to the face of the table. I then added a thin bead of wood glue on top of just
this one strip. The MDF is placed on top and positioned carefully before adding weight.
Once the glue was fully dried, the blade was placed back in the bandsaw. The glued strip
was carefully aligned with the slot, and a groove was cut just a little over half way.
A mitre arm is needed and I decided to use this scrap of U channel as it’s smooth and
straight, though a length of straight timber would work just as well.
I cut a couple of pieces of hardwood and glued this into the channel.
With the adhesive dry, I drilled a pivot point hole at one end.
It was then just a matter of working out where this pivot point should go and lightly marking
this. It’s important the hole is perpendicular, so I used a drilled block as a guide.
A bolt the same diameter as the hole was pushed through from underneath.
I fixed a scrap piece of angle iron to my router and used the pivot bolt to form a compass.
I then used a narrow router bit and cut out a curved slot. With that done, on the underside,
I used a wider router bit to cut down roughly half way and give the slot a T shape.
On the underside of the MDF, the head of the bolt was outlined, and a hole is chiselled
to receive the bolt head. The head should fit flush and it was bonded with adhesive,
taking care not to get any glue on the thread. Using a scrap of paper, I made a simple template
of the slot shape. I transferred this onto a section of hardwood and sanded it to shape.
A hole was drilled through the centre of this to receive a bolt.
The head of the bolt was ground down by roughly half.
A hex shape relief was chiselled into the curved scrap and the bolt slid perfecting
into this. A little adhesive was used to bond the bolt
in place and the wood was sanded, rounding the corners and easing the edges slightly,
to enable it to travel within the T slot. If you have a second guide slot on your bandsaw
as I did here, it’s time to glue on the hardwood guide strip as before.
Once dried, the wooden rails were countersunk and screwed. It was then time to thin these
down with a wood plane and some sanding. I drilled an appropriately placed hole through
the mitre arm and did a trial fit. It was at this point I realised I’d cocked up.
Any tension knob I fitted would likely sit proud of the front edge, so I had to make
a couple of adjustments to my arm design. You can buy threaded knobs, but I decided
to make one. I cut down a few scraps into different size
squares. The larger was trimmed to be roughly octagonal. A small sanding drum helped to
add a little shape to this. The smaller scrap was also rough cut with eight sides before
having a hole drilled through its centre. I then used my drill press to turn and sand
the piece into a cylinder. A hex shape was chiselled into this cylinder
and nut fit nicely inside this. Using a spare bolt, tightening the bolt draws
the nut firmly into the chiselled hole. The upper section can was be glued on, being careful
not to get any glue on the thread. Finally a few coats of wax were applied to
the MDF to make it shiny and reduce friction. This included waxing the table.
With the MDF in place, it was time for final fitting. It was a little fiddly, but the mitre
arm went on nicely. A couple of large washers go on the tensioning
bolt, and the knob was twisted on. The pivot bolt got a washer and a nylon locking
nut. This was tightened until it was snug, then a quarter turn back loosened it enough
to allow it to turn. And that’s a finished mitre sled.
It is possible to add a few improvements to this sled. For starters there’s currently
no markings. That’s because I have an accurate square on order and I want to make use of
that before I mark anything. Once I have that accuracy, I may add a couple
of guide holes for quick stops, like 90 degrees, 45 and 30. A hole and a peg will make precise
alignment quick and easy. The pivot arm could be longer so that it supports
on both sides of the cut, but I like it how it is. And you could always increase the height
of this arm with a simple screw on section. Some people like to secure a stop to the underside
to prevent the sled being pushed forward, but I’m happy to just stop pushing.
And finally a simple handle could be screwed on to help with pushing and pulling.
But personally, I’m happy with this sled just how it is. It cost me nothing to make
as I had everything lying around, but it does allow for quick accurate cuts on both 90 degrees
and angles of my choice. I hope you enjoyed this one guys, and if you
did please like it. Subscribe if you haven’t already done so, share my videos with all
your woodworking buddies and check out my other videos on my YouTube Channel.
So that’s it for now guys. Take care and thanks for watching.

Antonio Breitenberg

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17 thoughts on “bandsaw cross cut SLED – multi angle (mitre) cuts – for bandsaw or table saw

  1. bigstackD Casting says:

    Well your a clever little cookie to say the least . Your definitely a handy man but not me geoff that’s too much work for me 🤔👍🏻

  2. captainjerk says:

    Nice miter sled!
    Now, take that thing out to a steep snow-covered hill and zoom on down! 😀
    Oh wait, it's summer there.
    Well then, take it to the beach and give it a surf! LOL
    Great job Geoff!

  3. ArtByAdrock says:

    Cool man! That’s one tool I don’t have yet and eventually I would like to get 👍🏻 great job explaining that! That could be useful on my scroll saw at the moment 🍺

  4. فرفوشه أي says:

    Super like my freind

  5. Ron Yerke says:

    Oops! You're going to clip the corners of your miter's fence if you lose focus. 🤤 I know I would. Nice job anyway. 👍

  6. Yves Desrosiers says:

    Nice design. Thank you for sharing.

  7. Adharsh Krishna says:

    You could have marked the angle measurement

  8. Mark Trombley says:

    I don't understand why you took the bandsaw blade off. Couldn't the gluing of the single rail could have been done on a workbench, then the slot cut on the bandsaw?

  9. Metalscrapper says:

    7:26 😂😂😂
    This sled is sooo awesome! But it could still use a degree scale, but you mentioned that at the end. So nice to see you making stuff from scratch! 👍👍👍

  10. Julian HG says:

    Ooooh blooming lovely job Geoff. I’d love one of these. Looks lovely and accurate too 🙂

  11. Matt Fisher says:

    As always lovely work Geoff. Just a suggestion but i think some kind of work-piece clamping could be useful maybe something similar to this toggle clamp (https://cdn.axminster.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/1800x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/5/0/500319_xl.jpg) mounted to the arm. I also notice that you are missing one of the machine screws from your ratchet and it looks to be so similar to a Halfords one that their repair kit would do it.

  12. Luke Arts says:

    2:30 I usually use those to hide tubes in my house. But I don't have any scrap U-tubechannels lying around… X))

  13. BobHerres says:

    I'm impressed! Very Ingenious, and yet amazingly simple! Thank you for sharing this great design!

  14. Олег Каплун says:

    Very good👍👍👍

  15. phookadude says:

    Very nice. Instead of a knob you could put a cam lock parallel to the fence.

  16. Peter Van Rensburg says:

    Nice job, thank you for sharing

  17. William Vann says:

    Nice job on that miter table. Nice music selection, too. Who was that playing guitar? I need some of his licks more than I need the miter table. 🤠

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